I will talk this time about a treasure of peace located at Barrio Gótico; the best place to escape from tourists and the crowd. I have no doubts about it: the Sant Felip Neri’s Square is one of the most beautiful places of Barcelona.

Every time I go to to the place a feeling like discovering some virgin waterfall in the middle of the forest comes over me. It’s like a shelter or refuge, a forgotten corner away of the chaos.

At Sant Felip Neri’s Square you will find a small terrace (that belongs to the Neri’s Hotel) a huge tree and a fountain in the middle of it. The whole place is built over a medieval cemetery and you will find the Footwear Museum (see this article) and a big door that invites you to know the Sant Felip Neri’s baroque’s church.

I invite you to feel the experience of being there. You will love this place as I do.

Details about this spot
Sant Felip Neri’s Square | Relaxing
Sant Felip Neri’s Square | El Barrio Gotico (area map)
24 hours daily

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You might have gotten hungry from strolling around the Raval neighborhood, visiting museums, playing ping-pong on one of the public ping-pong tables (see this article), and having beers on Rambla del Raval.

But you spent way to much money already in eating out in fancy restaurants? Here is the perfect solution: Kapadokya on Rambla del Raval.

From the outside it might look like an ordinary bland Kebab - hut but from the inside it offers a lot more than you would expect.

The staff is usually very friendly and they prepare the food in front of you so you can see that they only use fresh ingredients - everything prepared with a smile.

The interior is all self-made and decorated with love. If you don’t find a table on the ground floor you can have plenty of space in the cute rustic orient-style basement.

Anyway, the chicken or beef durums (€ 4.00) are definitely the best in town and they also have plenty of vegetarian options such as the delicious halloumi cheese durum for only € 3.50!!! Mmmmmmh.

Details about this spot
Kapadokya | Restaurants (Turkish) | Durums € 4.00
Rambla del Raval 15 | El Raval (area map)
11:00 - 03:00 daily

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Located in El Gotico, this is probably one of the most beautiful places of Barcelona or at least the most peaceful and romantic one.

With a couple of bars and terraces, the Marina Maas shop (see this article) and the rest of a roman wall, you are probably in one of the best places of the town to spend a charming afternoon far away from the crowd.

It’s delightful to come here in the summer around 19:00 when it’s not that hot anymore and enjoy a cold beer sitting in one of the terrace of the place.

It’s amazing to think now that a few years ago, this place was very dangerous because of the drug addicts staying at the foot of the roman tower. This was a long time ago and a proof that Barcelona is always changing…

Details about this spot
Placa dels Traginers | Bars, Relaxing | Entrance € 5.00
Placa dels Traginers | El Barrio Gotico (area map)
24 hours daily

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Located in one of the most beautiful, romantic and hidden place of Barcelona, La luna de Jupiter is like a peaceful oasis in the crowded center of Barcelona. You can enjoy a nice tea or a glass of wine while listening to the birds chirping on the trees.

The decoration is very home style. A few tables with different tablecloths, a few chairs all different: armchairs, sofas so comfortable you almost could fall asleep. It looks kind of chaotic and first sight but the feeling of being home overwhelmed you totally after a few minutes.

They also make salads, sandwiches, and homemade cakes and maybe after eating you still can go to the Marina Maas (see this article) shop situated just in front of the bar.

Details about this spot
La luna de Jupiter | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Meal € 15.00
Placa Traginers, 8 | El Barrio Gotico (area map) | +34933196432
21:00 - 00:00 daily

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Situated on a relatively quiet street between the lively heart of Poble Sec and the busy, wide avenue of Parallel this small bodega serves exquisitely prepared plates of tapas.

It’s a busy, bustling little place and you won’t find a seat or a table - it’s shoulder to shoulder standing-room only at Quimet i Quimet - and there’s often a small crowd on the street outside.

The bodega serves its own label Belgian bottled beers and its own labelled cava. The walls of this tiny spot are lined from ceiling to floor with bottles of beers, wines and spirits from around the world - with exotic, rarely seen, bottles of advocaat, coñacs, vodkas and whisky, and its wines are second to none.

But it’s the food that makes this bodega very special - simple, but delicious foods such as cheeses, cold meats, canned seafood and vegetable patés served on bread or with bread sticks and transparent fruit flavoured jelly conserves, all lovingly arranged on the plate like an artwork.

It’s not a place for a meal - just a bite or two before dinner. It’s a good spot to meet up with friends before going on to a gig.

Details about this spot
Quimet i Quimet | Snacks | Tapas from € 0.95
C/Poeta Cabanyes 25 | Poble Sec (area map) | +34934423142
Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00 & 19:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:00 - 16:00 | Closed August

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Even in my previous lives I don’t think I’ve ever found myself in the waiting-room of a 1950s upmarket Spanish bordello, but if I had I imagine it would look and feel a bit like Rouge (think Almodovar).

Situated in Poble Sec just a couple of streets off Parallel and a few doors up from Quimet i Quimet (see this article) Rouge is a quirky lounge bar decorated with gilt-framed copies of Mannerist and early Impressionist paintings.

With its eclectic collection of comfy sofas, deep armchairs, bum-numbing stools, deep red walls and low lighting I love its louche atmosphere.

It’s a good spot for a drink or two after a gig at the nearby Apollo and before going dancing. Rouge does serve food - sandwiches, burgers, pastas - but I couldn’t recommend it as I’ve never tried it and I can’t recall ever seeing anyone eating. They serve a range of cocktails.

Rouge attracts an interesting crowd of people. When locating it for the first time keep your eyes open as the bar is accessed from the street by a simple, ordinary door - and you may have to press the doorbell to get in.

Friendly staff, a good, lively atmosphere and an interesting arrray of people make this a spot to remember and re-visit time and again. It’s so good I’ll probably still be visiting it in future lives.

Details about this spot
Rouge | Bars | Bottled beer € 4.00
C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 | Poble Sec (area map) | +34934424985
Tue - Sat 23:00 - 04:00

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I love my local market. I just read a survey in a newspaper today which reports that in Spain people in Barcelona have the shortest travel distance when shopping - an average of just 470 meters - half the national average. I can see why - we’ve got four markets in Gràcia.

La Albaceria is situated on the busy Traveserra de Gràcia, just 200 metres from the Library (see this article), so I always swing by on my way to and from. You’ll find some of the very best veggies, fruit, fish, meat, cheeses and herbs here as well as a Japanese sushi and fresh noodle bar, a Greek grocer and a second-hand bookstall.

The market has three bars, all of which sell food prepared with ingredients from the market, so, when you’re done shopping for veggies you can cool your heels and slake your thirst before buying your fish, meats and cheeses.

The city hall does a really inspiring job of promoting the city’s markets - with healthy eating tours led by nutritionists - including tours for diabetics and weight watchers - and giving practical demonstrations on food preparation.

The market recognizes its centrality to life in the barrio through actively promoting health related campaigns such as giving blood and supporting local social and cultural initiatives.

Details about this spot
Mercat de la Albaceria Central | Shopping
Travessera de Gràcia, 186 | Gracia (area map) | +34932136286
Mon - Thu 07:00 - 14:30 & 17:30 - 20:30, Fri - Sat 06:00- 15:00 & 17:00 - 20:00

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Another of my favourite lunchtime spots and, lucky for me, and you, it’s right next door to La Rita (see this article) . So, if La Rita is full, or there’s a long queue, just step a few metres to the left and enter La Gramola (the Gramophone) where you’ll enjoy an excellent 3 course lunch with bread and wine for just € 8.50.

The menu here is a curious but tasty fusion of Mediterranean and Japanese. So, for your first course you could try sushi, and for your second course: paella, or steak with roquefort sauce. Or, the other way around, you could start with a Catalan, Spanish or Italian dish and follow up with a Japanese rice or noodle dish. All good, tasty fun.

The restaurant is set out like a series of connected rooms, tastefully decorated with prints and paintings, and there’s a space at the back for smokers. Excellent value - and a good, central stopping-off point if visiting Gaudí’s Casa Battló or La Pedrera, as it’s just 200 metres off the bustling, and expensive, Passeig de Gràcia.

A really good spot for long, lingering, chatty lunches with friends.

Details about this spot
La Gramola | Restaurants (Mediterranean-Japanese) | Daily menu from € 8.50
C/Aragó 277 | Eixample (area map) | +34934874231
Mon - Sat 13:00 - 16:00 & 20:00 - 00:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00

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As you can see from the posters and press cuttings plastered across the front of the bar in the photo above, this fantastic little bar, which opened in 1947 and hasn’t changed since, is being threatened with closure.

If it is closed it will be a tragedy - an absolute tragedy. Angels, the owner, is battling a trumped-up charge of excessive noise. He’s organized a petition, and friends have rallied round to organize a gig to publicize the issue.

The only noise that emanates from this cosy little nook is laughter, chatter and Edif Piaf, or French accordion music. The bar hosts occasional gigs - chanteueses and tango - but they’re never THAT loud. Ridiculous. This petit bar is my son’s favorite bar in the world (Hi Harls!) and it’s one of my very favorite bars too.

If it’s still open by the time you get here you’ll find a cosy little, arty bar, about the size of a small living room, decked with paintings, sketches and prints layered with nicotine. Angels serves his own labeled absinthe and pastis, good cold draft beer and a spread of French wines and spirits.

R.E.M. once called in to try the absinthe. How cool is that? It’s a popular haunt too for local transvestites and prostitutes. With property prices as high as they are this sort of thing happens all too often in Barcelona.

It’s too easy for property speculators to bribe neighbors to denounce a bar or restaurant and put it out of business so they can move in and clean up. It’s just around the corner from El Cangrejo (see this article) , which was also closed for quite a few months because of noise problems.

Details about this spot
Bar Pastis | Bars | Absinthe & pastis € 3.50
C/Santa Monica 4 | El Raval (area map) | +34933187980
Mon - Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sun 20:00 - 03:00

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One of the most important advantages of living in Barcelona is discovering its wish of becoming a cosmopolitan city every day. I know that someday, near in the future, Barcelona will be what it could be thanks to the effort of those persons who come from other regions of the world to bring their vision, their colors and original flavors.

A Casa Portuguesa is a great example of the cultural riches you can enjoy while living here.

A Casa Portuguesa is a little place located at Barrio de Gracia that proudly offers a wonderful selection of the very often unknown culinary treasure of Portugal. It’s not really a restaurant but more of a Portuguese sampler; A place to find lost flavors and scents that can describe a beautiful heritage.

Just entering you feel you’re in a special place. You will find a good selection of wines and some other delicatessen from Portugal. Attention is polite and warm. If you’re lucky you could enjoy their well cared patisserie or confectionery with a cup of coffee or tea comfortably at one of their few tables.

If you feel yourself curious to taste the flavors from a past you never knew about, go there and try a Pastel de Belém with sugar and cinnamon topping. Don’t say later I did not talk about this place.

Nice trip!

Details about this spot
A Casa Portuguesa | Coffee & tea
Verdi 58 | Gracia (area map) | +34933683528
Tue - Wed 17:00 -22:00, Thu - Fri 17:00- 23:00

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